How To Repair Sprinkler Control Valve

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How to Repair a Irrigation Solenoid Valve

When a solenoid valve (as well chosen an electric valve or automatic sprinkler valve) fails to close it is almost ever because something is stuck inside it. This might be a grain of sand, a small twig, a insect, or fifty-fifty a tiny snail. To ready the valve you need to disassemble and make clean it. When a valve fails to open information technology is normally due to a bad solenoid or bad wiring, although in rare cases a grain of sand stuck inside the valve or a ripped diaphragm inside the valve. The post-obit instruction tell how to disassemble, clean, and audit the automated valve.

To make clean the valve:
As yous disassemble the valve be sure to notation how all the parts fit together so you tin can get it back together correctly! I strongly propose you brand a sketch and take notes. Each brand and model of valve is slightly different. The valve shown in the photos here is an anti-siphon type valve, which is a type commonly used on dwelling sprinkler systems. The cap construction on the right side of this valve is the anti-siphon device.

Anti-Siphon Solenoid Valve
Typical Anti-Siphon Type Solenoid Valve

Remove the solenoid from the valve. Most solenoids unscrew counter-clockwise to remove. When removing the solenoid watch that the spring loaded plunger inside it does not pop-out and fall into a mud puddle. On most newer valves the plunger is held "captive" so it won't autumn out when the solenoid is removed, but sometimes fifty-fifty those ones come loose. Once the solenoid is removed, push button in on the stop of the spring-loaded plunger in the solenoid. It should leap gently back out when released, and it should slide in and out smoothly when pressed several times in a row. If the plunger doesn't move easily and smoothly, supercede the solenoid; information technology is damaged and tin't be repaired. Practice non apply whatever oil or lubricant to the solenoid plunger, if information technology is sticking it is not repairable, replace it.

Solenoid Removed, Showing Plunger

Remove the valve lid, most are held in place by several metal screws. Some models of valve have lids that screw off like the summit of a jar, turn counter-clockwise (lefty losey) to remove this type of chapeau. You may need to employ a strap wrench to remove the jar-top fashion lids. All valves accept a spring nether the hat, don't let information technology autumn out into the mud! Remove the bound and set it aside.

Valve Lid Screws
Valve Chapeau Screws

Removing Valve Lid Screws

Spring Under Lid
Sentinel that the Spring Does Not Fall Out When Removing the Hat

Wait for the tiny passages, called "ports", inside the valve lid. These ports lead from the bottom of the chapeau to the area where the solenoid was fastened. The exact location of the ports varies with each valve make and model. Make certain these passages are not clogged with a grain of sand or whatever. Be careful you practice not scratch or enlarge these passages when trying to get the sand out! Practise not endeavour to drill out these ports to make clean them or make them larger.

Ports in Lid

Remove the prophylactic diaphragm from the valve. Make sure information technology is not cracked or broken, if it is replace it. Some valve models likewise have a port in the diaphragm, cheque to meet if there is one, if and so brand sure it is clean. On some valves the port in the diaphragm has a metal pin that runs through it, the purpose of the pivot is to keep the port clean. The pivot should slide freely in the port. The diaphragm in the photo below has a separate, removable seat gasket attached to the lesser of it with a screw. On many valves the rubber seat gasket and the diaphragm are one slice and the seat gasket is non removable. Make sure the seat gasket or diaphragm seat does not accept anything stuck on it, similar a grain of sand or twig. If the gasket surface is scratched or torn replace the gasket or diaphragm.

Examine the valve seat in the bottom of the valve trunk. The seat is the part of the valve body that the gasket presses against to stop the water menses through the valve. Make sure the seat is non scratched or pitted, if information technology is the valve volition leak when airtight. On some valves the seat is replaceable. On some brass valves the seat tin can exist ground down with a special tool to remove pits and scratches. Yet, for virtually valves if the seat is scratched or pitted, the valve is non repairable and must be replaced.

Rubber Diaphragm and Gasket

With the valve disassembled turn on the water to flush any remaining sand and grime from the pipes upstream of the valve. Turn it on full blast, and run it for a minute or two, you demand to go everything out of that pipe. Turn off the water, and dry out yourself off. I know yous don't desire to become wet, but don't skip flushing the pipes and valve body, this is an important pace!

Carefully clean everything, so reassemble the valve. Some valves accept a separate hat gasket or o-band that needs to be cleaned or replaced before beingness reassembled. If there are whatsoever o-rings, I strongly suggest you lubricate them before reassembling using Yard-Y Jelly or a similar product. Lubricating o-rings is optional, merely recommended as it keeps them from crimping during assembly. If the o-band crimps it will be ruined and will leak. K-Y Jelly is a water-based lubricant that you buy in the feminine hygiene department of a supermarket or drug store. (Don't enquire for it at the hardware shop unless you desire to requite the employees a good laugh at your expense. Yes, I acknowledge I savage for this back when I was first starting out in this business concern, information technology's a favorite plumber gag to send the new guy out to buy the Yard-Y Jelly!) Do not use vaseline, silicone, oil or any petroleum based products on the valve, they may harm the seals and also may clog the ports in the valve.

Use KY-Jelly to lubricate rubber parts of the valve
Use Chiliad-Y Jelly to Lubricate Prophylactic Parts of the Valve
Do Not Use Petroleum-Based Products!

When attaching the lid, avoid striping out the chapeau threads and warping the chapeau every bit follows: When inserting the screws that hold the cap on, start with one of the screws adjacent to the solenoid. Insert the spiral in the pigsty and so plough it counter-clockwise (losey lefty) until you experience a slight click as the screw finds the threads. Then reverse direction (righty tighty) and lightly tighten it. So insert the second screw on the opposite side of the valve lid. Similar the first, find the threads then just lightly tighten the screw. Continue with one screw on 1 side and the adjacent on the other until they are all in. Now go back and tighten them all, going in the same order you lot inserted them. Practice not over-tighten the screws on plastic valves, yous will strip out the threads.

If you lot're blessed and didn't mess upwards something the valve should work correctly at present.

Suggestion: Your valve has already failed once, chances are that ways something in the h2o got stuck in it, which means there is sand or any in the water supply. Consider installing a filter upstream of the valve to keep out the sand and crud in the future. Typically the toll of a valve repair is greater than the cost of installing a filter. Meet the Irrigation H2o Filtration Tutorial.